Onsen in Japan: The Complete How-To (Etiquette, Tattoos, Where to Go)
Slipping into a natural hot spring facing the mountains is one of the most Japanese experiences there is — and the one that intimidates travelers most. Nudity, unwritten rules, tattoos: let’s untangle it all, simply.
The rules, once and for all
- Wash BEFORE the bath, seated on the small stool, soap and full rinse. The pool is for soaking, never for washing.
- No swimsuits: everyone is naked, men and women separated in the vast majority of establishments. Nobody is looking at you — truly.
- The small towel never touches the water: fold it on your head, like the regulars.
- Whisper, don’t swim, don’t dive. The onsen is a place of collective decompression.
Tattoos: where do things really stand?
The historic ban (tied to yakuza) is softening, but remains the norm in many traditional establishments. Three concrete solutions: tattoo-friendly onsen (more and more numerous, especially in Beppu, Kinosaki and Hakone), private baths bookable by the hour (kashikiri), and adhesive covers for small tattoos. A local guide knows exactly which baths in their region accept tattoos — we get this question every week.
Onsen or sento?
An onsen draws naturally hot, mineral-rich spring water; a sento is the neighborhood public bath with heated water. Sento bathing is an urban experience that costs pennies, often in gorgeous retro buildings — the “neighborhood life” experience par excellence, and one of our favorite things to share with travelers.
Where to live a first memorable onsen
Hakone and Kusatsu for ease from Tokyo, Kinosaki for the charm of a village where you stroll in yukata from bath to bath, Beppu for volcanic excess. In winter, a rotenburo (outdoor bath) under falling snow is a memory that never fades.
Want to experience Japan with someone who actually lives here?
Our independent guides live in the neighborhoods they share. Private experiences, net prices in yen, and no payment until your guide confirms your date.
